The Portuguese Golf Resort That Cleverly Blends Five-Star Luxury With A Sanctuary-Like Feel

I’d been to Penha Longa in the Sintra region of Portugal before on a Wilson Golf press trip over 20 years ago, when I was equipment editor. But when I stepped through the entrance this time I remembered little.

I was really struck by its grandness, suggesting that it had either undergone a major renovation (almost certainly), that I had only played here and not stayed last time (quite possibly), and that my memory isn’t what it was (undoubtedly).

But after three nights there in July 2025 with my wife and daughter, I doubt I’ll forget it again for many reasons, not least my first ever (I think) Michelin-starred dining experience in the extraordinary LAB by Sergi Arola restaurant.

More of that later, but first the golf, and I had definitely played what is now the Atlantic Championship course - a Robert Trent Jones Jnr creation and one of the best golf courses in Portugal - before, with clear visual recall (incredible, I know) of the uphill 1^st and memorable closing trio.

But I’d not previously played the Monastery nine-holer, which was where I started on the first morning, driving down past some of the resort’s rich monastic heritage to the par-3 opener and surprising myself by finding the green with a 6-iron hire club in a three-club wind (very good Titleist irons that I liked so much I seriously considered buying a set).

There were several good and very varied holes, with the 2^nd a long, very tight dogleg left in a strong crosswind with a steep climb to the green. What could possibly go wrong? Not too much it transpired, thankfully. The par-3 8^th was then all carry over water with the wind into and off the right. I was delighted to successfully guess that 7-iron was the perfect club from 136 yards.

Next morning, I was almost first out on the Atlantic Championship course, which I loved. There’s a great video on YouTube of Robert Rock’s wide-right approach to the par-5 6^th - where there’s water left and an ancient aqueduct right – ricocheting off the aqueduct onto the green, from where he holed for eagle.

My ball sailed left into the lake from where, not surprisingly, it didn’t enjoy the same fortuitous rebound. But I did birdie the par-3 7^th the other side of the aqueduct, where water flanks the right side all the way.

Beyond the final trio of holes already mentioned – a down-and-up par 4 that’s kind of a mirror image of the 2^nd on the Monastery course, a near-200-yard drop hole and a tantalisingly tempting closing par 5 that allows you to open the shoulders – I would just mention the 11^th, a sharp dogleg right where the green winks at you cheekily and temptingly over the right-hand trees and scrub. Resist her Siren-like call, and stick to the safe dogleg route.

Off-course delights

Away from the fairways, what can I say? Soak up as much as you can of the resort’s monastic history, which gives this place a special retreat kind of feel even amid five-star luxury.

With an extra day over many press trips and only 27 holes of golf on the schedule, I got to extensively experience every pool, sauna, steam room, hot tub and even plunge pool plus most of the resort’s historic sites and eclectic mix of seven excellent restaurants.

Penha Longa Mercatto, with its informal Italian vibe, provides a light and airy space with a kind of conservatory feel and an extensive menu. It also doubles as the breakfast room, serving what my wife and daughter described as the finest morning spread they’ve ever been given free rein to indulge in at will.

I think there may even have been one or two ‘eyes bigger than stomachs’ moments while I was away playing my early-morning rounds of golf.

As for Arola and LAB by Sergi Arola, this was dining on a different level for me and my family, especially LAB by Sergi Arola, which took you on a ride through regional Portuguese specialities upstairs before a five-dish delight downstairs in the main part of the restaurant. Truly different and exceptional.

Then there was the chocolate workshop – the resort has a reputation for fine chocolate – which turned out to be a truly fascinating and enlightening experience in which we helped make our own chocolates (well, piped the Nutella into the centres).

Sadly, they didn’t ‘set’ in time for us to take them away, but my daughter was delighted to find that they miraculously appeared in the fridge in her room while we were out at dinner later that day.

Add in an afternoon trip to beautiful Lisbon plus wonderful spa experiences (massages for my wife and me, plus an elaborate facial for my daughter), coupled with relaxation time in the spa’s outdoor area, complete with Jacuzzi and a lovely walk featuring stepping stones across ponds replete with turtles and tiny frogs, and I like to think that even I won’t forget Penha Longa this time round.