Scotland - East Lothian

published 4 June 2008

In 1898 Harry Vardon secured his second Open Championship at the expense of an irate Scotsman, Willie Park Junior. The latter was so enraged he began issuing challenges to Vardon claiming the Claret Jug had been stolen from him. Vardon eventually agreed to a 72-hole contest for which each man would put up £100 of his own money. It was a duel that Vardon won with some ease. Park was shocked to such an extent he never played a challenge match again.

The first 36 holes of that infamous clash were held over the West Links at North Berwick on the East Lothian coast and an incredible 9,000 people came to see their hero battle against Vardon.

The first port of call was North Berwick. The West Links where Vardon faced Park is the 13th oldest track in the world and it exudes history and romance. Around the course you ll find yourself battling the pervasive wind while negotiating bumps, borrows, walls and burns. This is true links golf at its rugged best. Although the fairways are relatively generous you ll be punished severely for straying off line. The layout features notoriously difficult pot bunkers, an abundance of gorse and knee-high rough through the summer months. Given its proximity to the sea, it s not impossible for a wayward shot to end up on the beach.

Drained, I returned to our base in North Berwick. This is the perfect place for a holiday home, and as a result the town has the highest property prices of any seaside town in Scotland the average house here will set you back more than £250,000. Aside from the golf there are great beaches and sites of geographical interest. The area is also crammed with fascinating wildlife go on a cruise and see puffins, seals and the huge colony of gannets on the Bass Rock. Alternatively, visit the hi-tech Scottish Seabird centre. For those less interested in twitching, perhaps a jaunt to the Belhaven brewery in Dunbar might be more appealing.

The final destination on my brief tour provided a slightly different challenge. Kilspindie is a links course but pretty short at just over 5,400 yards. Full of bravado and misplaced confidence I looked at the card before playing and imagined signing for a 65 on the 18th green. However, this is a layout that places an emphasis on a precise short game so I was far less boisterous when recording an 82.

Having said that, Kilspindie does offer relaxing golf to suit all standards. After the rigours of North Berwick and Luffness, Kilspindie provided a welcome respite. Although far less well known that its neighbours, the course is immaculately maintained and offers beautiful views. Opened in 1867, Kilspindie is the 35th oldest club in the world and it s packed with character. And the cosy little clubhouse serves an awesome burger and chips!

Fergus is Golf Monthly's resident expert on the history of the game and has written extensively on that subject. He has also worked with Golf Monthly to produce a podcast series. Called 18 Majors: The Golf History Show it offers new and in-depth perspectives on some of the most important moments in golf's long history. You can find all the details about it here.

He is a golf obsessive and 1-handicapper. Growing up in the North East of Scotland, golf runs through his veins and his passion for the sport was bolstered during his time at St Andrews university studying history. He went on to earn a post graduate diploma from the London School of Journalism. Fergus has worked for Golf Monthly since 2004 and has written two books on the game; "Great Golf Debates" together with Jezz Ellwood of Golf Monthly and the history section of "The Ultimate Golf Book" together with Neil Tappin , also of Golf Monthly.

Fergus once shanked a ball from just over Granny Clark's Wynd on the 18th of the Old Course that struck the St Andrews Golf Club and rebounded into the Valley of Sin, from where he saved par. Who says there's no golfing god?