Scotland - Dornoch | Golf Monthly

published 3 June 2008

The great philanthropist and industrialist Andrew Carnegie said of his home in Dornoch, If there is heaven on earth, it is here . Lying on the tranquil Dornoch Firth with views inland to distant purple mountains, golden sands stretching along the shore and a clement, mild climate it s easy to see where the sentiment came from.

Carnegie s influence on the Royal Burgh was great. His donations included Dornoch s library and repairs to the cathedral. Even after his death his beneficence continues the magnificent Skibo Castle, Carnegie s home during the 1890s, is the largest private employer in Sutherland.

Nine miles short of Dornoch is the town of Tain. The course here was designed by Old Tom Morris in 1890 and the par-70 layout is fondly described as his Northern Jewel. Sheltered by its position on the south side of the Dornoch Firth, it s often overlooked by visitors who steam straight on to its more famous neighbour. But Tain is a great example of a natural Scottish links. Protected by gorse and heather, burns and deep rough it s a challenging proposition but one that can be extremely rewarding. On a pleasant day, with the call of oyster catchers on the gentle breeze, there are few more idyllic spots to swing a club in Britain. When you reach the 11th green the working world seems miles away. Right by the edge of the Firth and surrounded by sand hills, it s difficult to drag yourself away to the 12th tee.

Tom Watson, an honorary member of Royal Dornoch, described the layout as one of the great courses of the five continents . Are the plaudits and praise justified? Yes. There s evidence of golf having been played on the links as early as 1616 and the current course, a product of Tom Morris and John Sutherland s combined efforts, is magnificent. With rolling fairways, raised greens, run-offs and strategically-placed bunkers Dornoch must be negotiated with care and precision. Creative shot-making and the ability to manipulate a low ball are essential. To say the course is tough would be an understatement. At 6,514 yards and with a par of 70, the SSS can often be three or four over par. Don t expect to master the course on the first attempt just forget your score and enjoy the setting.

The architecture of the burgh is fascinating, exemplified by the cathedral, with its long and tumultuous history. Built by Bishop Gilbert between 1224 and 1239, it s been burnt down on no less than three occasions. In the Jacobite uprising of 1745-46 it was occupied by the King s men, then by the rebels. Today s congregation is presided over by Rev Susan Brown, the first woman to take charge of a Scottish cathedral.

Just 15 miles north of Dornoch, but still along the A9, is Golspie GC. Although the course here sits on the coast it s a different beast to Tain and Dornoch, blending links, heath and parkland over 18 excellent and varied holes with great names like Tinkers Camp and Tattie Pits. Designed by James Braid, Golspie is a great destination for golfers of all abilities. It s relatively short with a par of 68 but it s still tricky, and the varying holes mean you have to constantly re-evaluate shot choices.

Fergus is Golf Monthly's resident expert on the history of the game and has written extensively on that subject. He has also worked with Golf Monthly to produce a podcast series. Called 18 Majors: The Golf History Show it offers new and in-depth perspectives on some of the most important moments in golf's long history. You can find all the details about it here.

He is a golf obsessive and 1-handicapper. Growing up in the North East of Scotland, golf runs through his veins and his passion for the sport was bolstered during his time at St Andrews university studying history. He went on to earn a post graduate diploma from the London School of Journalism. Fergus has worked for Golf Monthly since 2004 and has written two books on the game; "Great Golf Debates" together with Jezz Ellwood of Golf Monthly and the history section of "The Ultimate Golf Book" together with Neil Tappin , also of Golf Monthly.

Fergus once shanked a ball from just over Granny Clark's Wynd on the 18th of the Old Course that struck the St Andrews Golf Club and rebounded into the Valley of Sin, from where he saved par. Who says there's no golfing god?