England - Bideford | Golf Monthly

Royal North Devon

published 3 June 2008

In the 16th century Bideford in North Devon was one of the most important towns in England. After Elizabeth I granted a trade charter with North America only London and Topsham, near Exeter, had a larger share of that business than Bideford. By the mid-18th century the town was importing more tobacco than anywhere in England. Ships also set sail from the port to fight the Spanish Armada when England was threatened in 1588, and then during the Napoleonic Wars Bideford was regularly targeted by the infamous pressgangs , who forced men of seafaring age to board vessels bound for naval war with France, the majority never to return.

North Devon also has an important place in the history of golf. The first course I visited in the area was Westward Ho!, or Royal North Devon (RND) as it s also known. Founded in 1864, it s the oldest golf club in England. Golf courses are often described as unique and sometimes that description is unjustified. But it s fair to say RND fits the bill. The coastline of the British Isles is dotted with seaside courses but few, if any, resemble Westward Ho!

Standing on the first tee it s difficult to believe a golf course even exists in front of you. A flat coastal plain stretches into the distance covered in sea rushes, sheep and wild horses. Playing the course reveals the complexities and subtle nuances that make this such a captivating and enthralling test of golf. It s relatively open but you must be strategic from the tee and on the approaches. Although RND appears to be flat there are many undulations and run-offs to deceive and perplex. It s often difficult to see where you re going from the tee and on a number of occasions the only option is to trust your swing and commit. This is epitomised by the tee shot on the 4th hole, Cape . Here you have to make a long carry over a huge bunker, and failure to do so could mean waving goodbye to a good round.

In clubhouse debates on the best courses to never host an Open Championship, Saunton East will always receive a mention. It s a superb links and certainly provides a stern enough test, placing you under scrutiny right from the outset. The first hole is a 478-yard par 4 demanding two long and accurate shots, a real baptism of fire. With thick rough, humps, hollows and treacherous bunkers, this is a real thinker s course. You can t stand up and bludgeon the ball, and good placement from the tee is critical. The wind plays a crucial role in any round at Saunton. I was lucky enough to enjoy unusually benign conditions but the standard south-westerly can turn some of the more innocuous looking par 4s into real brutes.

Back in Bideford by early afternoon, we had time to explore the picturesque former port. Although it s a relatively small town there s plenty to see. View some local artwork at the Burton Gallery, then stroll through the Pannier Market where local farmers sell their produce. It s a bustling hive of activity and great for people watching. Also impressive is Bideford Long Bridge. Built upon an ancient causeway, a bridge has existed here since medieval times. If you re feeling energetic hire a bicycle and travel the Tarka Trail . It s so named because Henry Williamson s fictional Tarka the Otter lived alongside nearby rivers the Torridge and the Taw. Elsewhere, the picturesque village of Clovelly is well worth a trip too.

The final leg of our brief golfing sojourn to the West Country was Ilfracombe. The course at Ilfracombe, dating from 1903, provides a different set of challenges from the two previously visited. It s not long, in fact it measures less than 6,000 yards from the back tees. But the undulating terrain and long par 3s make playing to handicap a difficult proposition. The views over the Bristol Channel are delightful, with some of the best to be enjoyed from the clubhouse. After three energy-sapping rounds this was the perfect place to relax and reflect on a West Country adventure.

Fergus is Golf Monthly's resident expert on the history of the game and has written extensively on that subject. He has also worked with Golf Monthly to produce a podcast series. Called 18 Majors: The Golf History Show it offers new and in-depth perspectives on some of the most important moments in golf's long history. You can find all the details about it here.

He is a golf obsessive and 1-handicapper. Growing up in the North East of Scotland, golf runs through his veins and his passion for the sport was bolstered during his time at St Andrews university studying history. He went on to earn a post graduate diploma from the London School of Journalism. Fergus has worked for Golf Monthly since 2004 and has written two books on the game; "Great Golf Debates" together with Jezz Ellwood of Golf Monthly and the history section of "The Ultimate Golf Book" together with Neil Tappin , also of Golf Monthly.

Fergus once shanked a ball from just over Granny Clark's Wynd on the 18th of the Old Course that struck the St Andrews Golf Club and rebounded into the Valley of Sin, from where he saved par. Who says there's no golfing god?